Road To Popova Sapka Ski Resort-Tetevo

A smoke covered Tetovo as we climb the mountain to Popova Sapka.

 

We have traveled from Skopje on the E65 highway to Tetovo in a very quick forty minutes of motorway driving. There is significant burning in the Vardar Valley surrounding area creating a dull brownish-haze that is hanging over Tetovo. Tetovo is predominately populated by Macedonians of Albanian decent and Kosovar refugees; a vibrant city with universities and a lot of "action" on the streets. We must navigate through several round-abouts (just keep the mountain insight and head that direction; not much of a road and no real signage, however, you can't miss it; even I did not get lost!) to find the mountain road on the opposite end of town. The once popular mountain tram is no longer functioning, so one must drive and/or take a taxi/bus.

A village above Tetovo; we think Lavce is the name.

 

We pass through several/one long community of houses built on the face on the mountain looking back up the Vardar Valley towards Skopje. The air is cooling as we climb and climb and climb; more twists and turns than a giant roller coaster. The ski resort located on Popova Sapka is used  by residents of Skopje and surrounding communities; and it is also relatively inexpensive to ski here.

The new church to Saint Naum Ohridski Cudotvorec at the bottom of the ski run on Popova Sapka.

 

We have passed through several large stands of trees and the air is very pleasant; several camping areas; and what appears to be trailheads for hiking (did not see any signage, just a lot of people walking through the woods). There is no real service on the drive up to the resort/town below the skiing areas; and since it was July 5th, not much happening in the resort area.

Yes, some snow remains overlooking the open area underneath the lifts (sorry too hazy to capture).

 

It is really peaceful up here; the only noise is the sound of workmen repairing the winter chalets and cabins in the town. Lots of roofing and masonry work going on in town.

These buildings are located at the base of the hill and the end of a ski run; nice location.

 

 A large hotel, situated at the end of a run.

 

This appears to be the highest area served by the resort; patches of snow and clouds.

 

A nice and easy drive to escape the heat and humidity of Skopje; it was cool enough that Madlyn put on a sweater and we had to eat indoors as the cloud cover made it actually a bit chilly. We ate at a wonderful restaurant that due to summer  was definitely short of help; the food, once we were served was very good and surprisingly very reasonable (for a resort area). If you get to Skopje in the summer; remember Popova Sapka, along with Matka and Mavrovo National Park to escape the heat and tourist atmosphere of Skopje; all easy drives from Skopje. All have beautiful scenic landscape; water/snow and the air is so much cooler; they are some of the natural treasures of Macedonia.

 

An energy "tower" on the ski slope of Popova Sapka.



 

 

 






The Mosaics of Heraklea, Macedonia

 

We returned to Heraklea (well I did; Madlyn's first visit) on June 28, 2013 to see the mosaics that are covered  until the warmer months of summer. We were very fortunate to arrive in Bitola shortly before a very strong thunderstorm drenched the city and surrounding area; including giving Heraklea a good rinse from all of the dust. The benefit of the rain and the dampness added a bit more color to the tiles and better background representation.

 

 

The mosaics uncovered in Heraklea date back to the Byzantine time up to the 6th century; the mosaics are from 1400-1700 years old (depending on who is the guide!). All of the mosaics photographed are from the large and small Basilica and the Episcopal Residence in Heraklea; Heraklea was the seat of the Bishop; reporting directly to Constantinople.

 

 

The detail found in the mosaics displays great artistic talent from the creators of the various scenes found in the religious buildings. There are present in the mosaics, vivid shades of brown, red, yellow, green, blues, whites and the many hues that nature wears.

 

 

I am climbing from the ground to 4 foot high walls in order to photograph the mosaics; as you can see above, in some areas larges sections of the mosaic are missing, all in all though, Heraklea provides some of the most complete mosaics for viewing(there is minimal entrance fee and an additional cost to photograph) in Macedonia. Enjoy the mosaics that follow.

 

 

 

 

 

 The above is a pomegranate tree; you can discern the distinctive pods of the pomegranate and the opening crown for access to the fruit.

 

 

The mosaic above covers an area of about 30x60 feet; at one time the floor was covered in a mosaic that told a story specific about the purpose of the room in the Basilica/Episcopal Residence. I am standing on a back wall taking this photograph.

 





 

This is the most ornate or busy mosaic; you can see ducks, geese, chickens and wild birds; bags of vegetables; wine pitchers (maybe water); possibly shafts of wheat and a lot of color variations on display. We thought this might be a large/formal dining area for the Bishop due to all the apparent references to food/bounty.

 

 

 

Even the statues looked a little "fresher" after the rain; the museum had a theater mask display in support of the ongoing activities in the Greek/Roman theater of Heraklea.

 

 

 

 

The trip to Heraklea from Skopje is an easy drive on great roads; Bitola has some outstanding restaurants; significant historical importance in addition to Heraklea. You can even make it a "wine" country trip with a bit of history on the side; you must pass through the heart of the wine region of Macedonia on your drive to Heraklea; I mean, what more incentive does one person need to cruise to Heraklea; oh, and in summer you pass by the best (in my opinion) open-air "real" farmer's markets as you drive through the vineyards. Enjoy.

 





 



 

 

 






Summer Night in Skopje-June 28, 2013

 

We took a nice evening walk downtown on June 28, 2013. The main plaza was alit with all of the statues (courtesy of Skopje 2014) and many of the new government buildings (although still under construction) across the Vardar River were shining in the night. The re-making of Skopje may be a bit over the top; a people reclaiming their history; in full of view of the world; in the "face" of neighbors; I would say it is more than their "Sunday" best; however you look at it, it is a delight for the senses.Take a walk with us and enjoy the photos.

 

Side view of Alexander of Macedon statue/fountain.

 

The Perlister Hotel and Restaurant (my favorite spot).

 

Madyn sitting at the base of the Alexander statue/fountain (yes, looks like Vegas!)

 

The old stone bridge built upon Roman foundations by the Ottomans; dating 15th century; behind is the new National Archaeological Museum of Macedonia.

 

This building a museum dedicated to Macedonian life during the struggle for freedom.

 

This building will house the National Theater.

 

Looking up the Vardar River from the Old Stone Bridge.

 

Looking down river at the National Archaeological Museum.

 

The visible "river" walk area will continue the length of the new development of government buildings.

 

A fountain dedicated to Alexander's mother; very difficult to shoot with red and purple lights!

 

The fountain and this specific area across the Old Stone Bridge is a large plaza that leads to the Old Bazaar; Old Turkish Baths; a statue of Philip II and the future home of the National Philharmonic Orchestra; across the plaza is the Holocaust Museum; the plaza is a big gathering place with vendors and lots of foot traffic.

 

Yep, purple horses in the fountain!

 

The Holocaust Museum in Skopje; a visit to his memorial is in order. The exhibit is a wonderfully told story of Jewish history in Macedonia and the Balkans; an excellent video concludes the story.

 

The front of the Museum dedicated to the "struggle"; and those are cannons pointed at you.

 

The National Theater Building.

 

The Old Fort overlooking the Vardar River.

 

You can maybe imagine how large this plaza will be when completed.

 

The fountain erupts from the river; it is quite the light show in Skopje.

 

Finally, the Macedonian Arche De Triumph!

 

The downtown area of Skopje impacted by the Skopje 2104 re-development program is dazzling at night; as well, it is just amazing the amount of statuary on display; the design and eclectic approach to the government buildings; and new pedestrian bridges over the Vardar River (covered with statues). Madlyn and I found the namesake for the street where I live in Skopje: Dimitar Pandilov was an impressionist artist and major player in the movement in Skopje who died during the earthquake of 1963. To cap off the wonderful light show, around the main plaza (Makedonia Plostad) and along the river walk area are may excellent restaurants; café bars; gelato stands and a large mall is adjacent to the plaza. There is even a skateboard park near the Old Stone Bridge (saw lots of action there).

 

 

We have had our gelato; off to the taxi stand and home. Good night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Road to Bargala, Macedonia-June 22, 2013

The outer wall of Bargala as viewed from neighboring hills.

 

We are on our way to Stip and the ancient remains of the Roman city called Bargala. Bargala is located about 11 miles northeast of Stip; following a well paved secondary road into the region of Kuchani, where I spent some time in March monitoring the election process (another story sometime). The countryside is mainly rolling hills with well tended wheat fields and some very fascinating small villages strategically located near rivers or hilltops.

The outer wall extending towards a river.

 

We are immediately aware that Bargala is not a well tended archaeological site and not especially secure. A serious issue in the Balkans as throughout much of the world hosting sites from ancient civilizations; is the destruction/damage  to the sites by artifact thieves. Bargala has suffered that indignity and yet, is left wide open without any form of security or protection. 

Some restoration is visible within the site.

 

Bargala was a significant urban center up until around the 6th century; however historical reference to Bargala's existence dates back to the 4th century BCE; additional evidence recovered from the site suggest human residence on site dating much further back in time.




Approaching the former Basilica.

 



An assortment of remnants of pillars once supporting the roof lines of Bargala.

 

A pillar still stands in the Basilica of Bargala.

 

The floor of the Basilica.

 

Looking down on the entrance to Bargala; the arches have all been restored.

 

Storage room with buried clay pots.

 

The storage room was located near the top of the city; it has been recreated on the site and was a nice surprise. It is the most complete reconstruction that I have seen in Macedonia. Some of these pots are at least 6-8 tall, yes they are huge.

 

 

This pot has been pieced together.

 

The paleo-archaeologist at Stobi told us that the pots were used for everything from grains, wine, olive oil, fruits, and vegetables. The process of placing the pots below the surface kept them at a constant temperature; coupled with a roof to protect from the elements; it is a primitive version of "cold" storage as we know it today, ensuring a longer life for the stored food items.  

 

Clay supports/pipes in the old bath.

 

Madlyn next to inside of the outer wall; eyeing the path that follows the wall to the large arch; I believe it is an exit gate from Bargala.

 

Bargala was the site of the early Christian Church of St. George; the photos of the Basilica show what is left of this 5-6th century church. Down the hill and nearer to the river is a very old Orthodox Church; we were unable to approach and determine the name and age of the structure.

This church is just below the outer walls of Bargala.

 

The road trip to Bargala was an easy drive and our reward for this adventure would be lunch at the Mal Odmor  (owned by the Oaza Hotel)just outside of Stip. (Recommended and rightly so by Brandt) We had a great lunch, of local cuisine; Roy even tried the carp (he said it was great; note, Roy eats about anything; just don't let him pick out the wine!). We head out of Stip in the direction of Veles and the intersection of the main national Macedonian highway for our return to Skopje.

 

A very common sight; stork nests atop utility poles.