Butrint-Ferry Ride-Valley Road

The road to Butrint is currently under major reconstruction; the result is a normal thirty minute drive takes at least an hour to arrive at this beautiful National Park. We drive alongside the shores of Lake Butrint and pass through the quaint little village of Ksamili. As we approach the last hill leading to the park, we stop and park the car. From our vantage point we are able to see the fortress that is only accessible by boat. The fortress is situated to guard the Vivari Channel, which leads to the Triangular Fortress and the city of Butrint.

While parking our car near the entrance to the National Park, we discover part of the ancient wall of Butrint projecting into the street; outside of the protective fence.

The entry fee into the National Park is 700 LEKE (about $7.00) per person, which includes a very well written pamphlet; that Cliff opens and begins to study. He grabs the nearest bench (in the shade, oh, it is humid and about 90-95 degrees) and goes cover to cover while Dodie and I get ready to take photographs. In a matter of a few minutes, Cliff has finished the brochure and announces; I will be the guide and keep us headed in the right direction and you guys can take your pictures. I mean, what are friends for; I ask you, who travels 10,000 miles to be a guide in Albania? Not one to pass up a great deal like that, I'm off, until my "guide" tells me I'm going the wrong way...could be a long tour!

We pass by a Norman Tower and a 4th century BCE sanctuary dedicated to a healing god. Entering a pathway with two pillars at the entrance and massive eucalyptus shading the pathway and creating a "cathedral" effect over the trail. Dodie and I stay on the pathway to avoid the attention of our guide who is intent on his mission of educating us and keeping us out of trouble.
Around the corner and to our immediate right emerges the 3rd century BCE Theatre; which was later modified by the Romans upon settling in Butrint.

The Theatre complex is quite large and also includes a 2nd century Roman bath house. Unfortunately, due to a rising water table the area immediately in front of the stage is under water. A bridge has been constructed to allow visitors to walk around to the amphitheatre.

A modern stage has been constructed in front of the amphitheatre, allowing for plays and musical events to be staged within the 2300 year old facility. Having read a few volumes of Roman history, I suspect the Romans (read Legions)could really enjoy "heavy metal" on their stage!

It is readily apparent that Nature has done it's very best to reclaim the island that hosts the city of Butrint. We see trees and vines emerging from between huge stone walls and Cliff tell us that only part of the island has been excavated and is open to the public.

Some doors remain closed to us in the business area of Butrint. Looking at this next photo you can see various styles of construction in the walls and arch.

We are still in the lower part of the island as we negotiate past an old gymnasium/church towards a 6th century baptistery; housing a mosaic (representing Christian salvation) found in most Albanian tour books and currently covered with sand to protect the tiles.

We are traversing this small island that has had some form of recorded human habitation since before the Greeks; Romans(including a visit from Julius Caesar in 44BCE); local tribes; Byzantines; Normans, Venetians and Ottomans, each culture leaving an imprint.

Sometimes this involved building on top of previous structures; others just took stones from the old city and built a new one; we would see Greek writing on stones in the walls of Christian churches (serious recycling occurring here).These mosaics are in the corner of the Great Basilica,(near the altar) a Christian church from the 6th century.

We are getting close to the Lake Gate (which required bending over to enter,a good defense) which dates to the 4th century BCE. Notice the curved stone holding the upper "bridge" piece in place for the doorway.
We spot some benches under cover overlooking Lake Butrint. Next to us are some young adults from Germany, who are also taking a water break. Did I mention it was hot and humid; water is a prized commodity today. Our guide gets us up and moving and climbing over stone to get to the Venetian fort which commands the high ground on the island. Near the Lions Gate we see a large abandoned structure outside of the walls of the city...no explanation/discussion from the guide(I sense a small tip is in order for this guy).

We climb a number of stairs, approaching the Venetian castle and fortress/tower from the rear. Cliff and Dodie walk up ahead to "welcome" me to the castle! A quick glance behind them reveals a significant padlock on the gate; it appears we must enter through the front door.

We barely notice the cannon poking out of the wall as it is hidden by the branches of the tree (bet it cuts down on visitors!).

The view from the castle grounds is stunning. We can see all the way to the fort near the sea and the Triangular Fortress across the channel.

The castle is home to the Butrint National Park Museum and it is spectacular.
Included in the collection are artifacts from human occupation dated to 14,000 years ago found during the excavation of Butrint; trading goods from around the Mediterranean region; the Levant; and from North Africa; Greek and Roman statues; weapons of war; articles of jewelry; Greek & Roman coins; household items and expansive maps detailing the long history of Butrint (no photos allowed, however, a definite thumbs up and worth the trek and climb!).

It has taken us a little over four hours to walk through the ruins of Butrint; we could have spent most of the day exploring the park; I will definitely come back here with my wife when she returns to Albania; and I look forward to that adventure. However, one little obstacle must be overcome today; how do we get back to Saranda. Returning on the same road is voted a "bad" plan and so we choose option "B", the ferry. Now this seemed like a good idea at the time...all I can suggest is have an adult in the group when making such important decisions!

As anyone can see, this is not the latest technology at work; balance is a key in this operation. So, with a little trepidation in our hearts, we drove onto the ferry under the guidance of the "captain". We were pulled across the channel by a partially submerged cable, that was connected to the oldest diesel engine I have ever seen. Once back on land, we decided we would do anything to avoid a second trip on the ferry...did I mention it listed when we drove our car onto the ferry?

I suspect the new road from Saranda will impact the future of the ferry; perhaps, a bridge will be next on the agenda and with it a proper traffic pattern and parking area for visitors to Butrint.
We are on solid ground and passing Vrina on our way to Xarra (heading towards the Greek-Albanian border), hopefully for lunch...no such luck, Xarra has nothing for us to eat; however, we make a wonderful discovery. The road north from Xarra is brand new; smooth; wide and taking us back to Saranda through open countryside with a great view from the Southeastern shore of Lake Butrint.

We return to Saranda in time to hit the Demi Restaurant, which is built over the sea. A great location for a late lunch under a covered terrace...we take our time eating; drinking and talking about our experience in Butrint (definite thumbs up!!!).

Next stop Gjirokastra.

Saranda-The road South

It is July 21st and we are heading to southern Albania for a three day adventure that will take us to Saranda, Butrint and Gjirokastra.This is my first trip to Saranda and the first visit to Albania for Cliff and Dodie, who have flown in from Copenhagen after a Baltic Sea cruise; for a road trip with me.

The setting and the look on the faces of Cliff and Dodie tell you all you need to know about a lunch at the Hotel Paradiso. The Hotel and restaurant are located just South of the city of Vlore; this is our first break on our 284 kilometer trip from Tirana to Saranda.
The covered patio is on a small point overlooking a blue-green sea that is sharing a cool breeze with us. The restaurant at the Hotel Paradiso serves a calamari dish that is an absolute delight to eat; in fact all of food is exceptionally good (the norm in Albania) and we enjoy a view of the beach and swimmers before heading south to Saranda on the second half of our journey.

After leaving Vlore we head East through the mountains (via the Llogoraja Pass), that separates the southern coastal towns from the rest of northern Albania. The road is challenging with constant switchbacks; guard rail empty roads on precipitous cliffs with the most incredible views of the Ionian Sea and the beaches below us.

We meet interesting travelers along the way; including "cows in the fast lane", who, although without proper blinkers and brake lights, did observe the rules of the road in Albania; I must admit it did get a little ugly when the cows "passed on the right"and I think gave us a dirty look!

We also discover a large Albanian bunker (the coastal mountains are punctuated with bunkers of various sizes; many with great Sea views!) that has been painted orange and labeled "orange". I'm not sure if an Oregon State follower has been through here recently; although, I'm sure one of the Ducks did not do this paint job...a little class on a mountainside in Albania! Notice the security "agent" protecting this valuable piece of art.

The southern coast of Albania was host to Cold War era submarine bases around one corner and ancient castles and fortifications around the next. We were coming down towards the Ionian Sea during one part of the trip and observed a castle on a small island connected by an isthmus;

looking back where we had just passed, we observed a real surprise; a military installation and a submarine pen dug out of the mountainside!

On arrival in Saranda, I promptly get us lost, whereupon Cliff pulls out his Blackberry and does a Google search and yep, we are at the wrong end of town. A quick turn around and we drive to our hotel; it is the Brilant (rooms are great, although some issues with amenities) and we are close to everything and I mean everything, including a local nightspot on the beach that keeps going until midnight each night...this place is jumping, and we are in it!


We unload the bags (Cliff and Dodie on the first floor with a partial sea-view and me on the backside on the third floor, where I stand on tiptoes to look out the bathroom window for my sea view!) and head to the promenade that runs the length of the Bay of Saranda.

We will use the Brilant as our "home" while in southern Albania; returning each night to enjoy the Ionian and the thousands of people who are vacationing with us in Saranda. And what a great choice and location; about two minutes from the front door of the hotel to the promenade of Saranda.
We notice that the crowds come out just after sunset and the "people watching" is amazing; people are smiling and talking; children everywhere; street vendors lining the sides of the promenade; no real jostling of people, more of an ebb and flow of pedestrians on the promenade. There are constants each night; the roasted ears of corn for sale; gelatto (oh, yeah); the gentle breeze from the Sea and three "nanas" who sit each night on the same bench. I asked to take a picture of them together and they laugh and say no; I look as sad as possible and finally the one in middle convinces her "girls' to agree(they thought it was so funny when I took their picture!). I think it is one of those "priceless" moments you seldom capture.

Our first night in Saranda is also the night of a promotion/production on the promenade of Albanian music,complete with sound stage; lights; boom camera and great music. Cliff locates a restaurant/bar built on a cement pier where we can sit next to the water; enjoy the breeze; order drinks (thumbs up) and listen to the music from a discrete distance.

Now, in case I forgot to mention it; Cliff will try just about anything when it comes to food. So, one evening, Cliff bought a roasted ear of corn from one of the vendors for about 50 LEK (about 50 cents); next step was eating the corn, which was not what he was used to eating and attempting to share the delight with Dodie and me (he did finish the ear of corn, with much encouragement from Dodie!).

We will spend most of our evenings exploring Saranda and sampling the restaurants along the promenade; walking the length of the promenade; and even watching the feral dogs sleeping on the 6th century mosaic tiles of a synagogue/church; which has suffered from modern construction (read road construction) and lack of proper maintenance and cover.

Saranda is a real treasure for Albania; the potential for a "world-class" tourist city/destination is real; close proximity to the Greek island of Corfu; amazing food; reasonable accommodations (all the way to 5 Star); a new major road in the making; Butrint only 15 plus kilometers away and the location is special.

I took this photo from the 5th floor terrace of the Brilant Hotel on our first night in Saranda.

Next stop Butrint.

Rug Shopping in Kruja-Bye Meghann

A lot of changes happening in Tirana for all of us; most noticeable is the arrival of our new Ambassador, who is from Colorado (Hector's land) and will be here the beginning of August.
This past week (read Thursday) was our last pizza night with Meghann, who returned to Colorado on Friday. She will be missed; a bright young person whose perspective of Tirana was indicative of her adventurous spirit. Meghann is really going to be missed by Alba, who has to first receive her rabies shot and then wait at least thirty (30) more days until she can fly to Colorado and her new home. Alba has expressed her displeasure with Hector by taking his laundry off the line and delivering it to me this morning. I had to give it back, the color was okay, just didn't fit quite right! Last I saw of Hector and Alba was something about a very long walk as Hector was leashing her up for Alba's next adventure!
Anna left too, to journey to Switzerland for a visit with her sister and family and a cruise around the Mediterranean, returning on July 20.
On Friday night, Mike, Hector and yours truly attended a birthday/goodbye party for Paul Frasier at the Kaon Brew Pub. Paul is leaving PAMECA (EU organization) and heading to Pristina, Kosovo to work for OSCE (Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe) as the CFO for them. I believe a good time was had by all and we returned in the wee hours of the morning; I must admit I was at a total loss most of the evening speaking with my English counterparts who were from different regions of England (Manchester,Yorkshire and Lancashire)...idiomatically, I have no idea what transpired, they do not speak the same English to each other and definitely not West Coast American English; we all could speak beer (read copious amounts), so that smoothed the edges.

We had an earthquake Saturday morning at 0015 hours. I was sitting at the computer, having just returned from Paul's party, when I noticed my speakers and "teddy-bear" bouncing on the shelf above my head. Now, I'm from the Pacific Northwest and we have 'quakes once in a while (actually fairly regular basis); and so realizing the rumbling and moaning of my building did not infer a haunting from former tenants; I quickly positioned myself in the doorway; just like that it was over and the building went back to sleep. I called Mike to see how his 10th floor aerie withstood the quake; okay, Mike is not from a region of earthquakes and was justifiably "impressed" ( read, wow, Disney "E" ticket impressed)with our little "tumbler". A brief chat and on to Hector; called him with no luck only to discover he slept through it! The epicenter was in Elbasan, (12 miles below the surface and a 4.8 rating) which located about 50 kilometers from Tirana. No obvious damage in the 'hood.
Mike is moving into our building this week and since the landlord is remodeling the apartment (Mike has chosen some of the colors), he has decided to get some accent rugs. This decision has taken the three us of back to Kruja and the "old bazaar" to search out the perfect rugs for Mike. It is a short visit to the shops, Mike seems to know what he would like and gets a good feel for what is available in Kruja. The shop owner explains some the history of Albanian rugs and the how the various colors are associated with specific regions of the country (The discussion is quite similar to my previous lesson in Istanbul at the rug factory). The rugs are patterned in animal (some mythical creatures), geometric and floral designs; with some combinations of some or all present in the final offering. The shop owner also has some "real" carpets quite similar to the Turkish rugs in Istanbul; he explains that the carpets are about twenty (20) years old and were manufactured during the "communist era". We thank him and let him know we will be back (read sending some co-workers to haggle for us).

Hector wants to look for an etching or painting and heads off to one of the galleries to find a new treasure. Mike and I walk the length of the old bazaar; which street and gutter are composed of very old, rounded stones that are polished (read slippery) from the constant friction from shoes/sandals and the rocks. This is a good people watching walk; we are rewarded with many fellow travelers passing us from both directions. Heading back, a simple decision is made, shade and a drink and maybe some food. Hector grabs us on the way back and shows the gallery and what he is considering; he has a good eye, now to work the owner. Wishing him luck we move up towards the castle and a restaurant adorned with "coca-cola" flags!

This picture is from the "top" of the old bazaar and captures some of the details of the upper outer walls of some of the old wooden structures(this is one of the better preserved pieces) in the old bazaar.
A seat with a view and a beer in the shade; we definitely are creatures of habit! A short time later Hector calls and says he scored and where are we? Up the stairs bag in hand here comes Hector; who it seems could not get the "right price" and ends up buying small copper plant holders.
Almost immediately, conversation turns to food and menus appear for our review; easy choice for me and Mike(who wants to run to Durres for lunch-not happening)but settles for a pizza and salad (me too). Hector on the other hand becomes an Italian speaker to get his point across; you see, Hector really likes meat(we call him the "carnivore" and Meghann was/is "junior carnivore") and explains to the waiter he wants "gordo" sized meal; and does he get what he wants. The waiter returns after a period of time with a large wooden tray with an equally large clay pot filled with lamb that has been baked in the oven. The lamb is covered with fresh bay leaves and garlic; Hector is in awe and speaks very few words for a considerable time, only uttering this is sooooo good-thank you!! I am in awe that he can eat that much lamb; I fear the lamb population in Albania could be in serious danger if he stays for a long period of time.
Back to the truck and hopefully back to Tirana, however, Hector heads off towards another store and a few minutes later returns with a bas-relief of the "old bazaar".

We, as is our custom, get lost trying to get down the mountain and through Kruja proper; however, there are limited options(which works in our favor) and soon, homeward bound.