The Elbasan to Pogradec train affectionately called the "bullet" for obvious reasons, eases next to the open air platform in Elbasan. One diesel engine and two cars are all that comprise the train; since we only paid 130 LEK (about $1.30 US) we cannot complain. It is a brief stop to pick up travelers who are returning to homes in the mountains and towns above the Shkumbinit River Valley, day visitors, and for adventurers such as ourselves who have picked an incredible spring day for this trip.
We depart from the Elbasan station promptly at 1011 hours and head slowly out of town on a journey that will take about 3 hours and 20 minutes.
The passenger cars are dated and some of the windows are seriously damaged; what the car is though is a comfortable and clean environment affording us a platform from which to view the mountains and the river valley at a leisurely pace(read streetcar slow!). Some of the passengers are dressed in their best clothes and some like us are dressed comfortably for the trip with cameras in our hands.
The gentleman in this picture was identified to us when we arrived in Pogradec as a "famous" maker of musical instruments using the bladder and intestines of sheep.He appeared to be amused at our behavior of taking pictures hanging out of the train windows and laughing all the time. Let me mention here our "in flight" service; you bet, we had a concessionaire on board who sold snacks and cold beer for only 100 LEK, a definite thumbs up on this feature. We ended up purchasing a few(no surprises here)and even bought one for the musical instrument maker.
This trip is also a goodbye to one of the really good people in Albania who will be leaving for a new assignment shortly in Ethiopia. His name is Jack and he is the instigator of this trip and set up all of the transportation. However, thank you Martha for encouraging Madlyn to take a chance on the train ride.
I have been fortunate to have worked on a couple of projects where Jack and I partnered (read our respective organizations)on some very successful trainings for the Albanians; I am lucky to be able to call him a friend.
The view from the train is unobstructed and we can see that we are quite a bit higher than the cars below us. The surprises are frequent as we pass small villages and approach Librazhd, including rounding a corner and discovering a bazaar just below us.
The train maintains a comfortable clickety-clack sound with a slight sway once in a while; we pass through tunnels and over bridges, never too fast, just right. You could definitely take a long and comfortable nap on this train.We pass through a "graveyard" of old and abandoned passenger cars and engines on the siding...rusting hulks,memories stored and no one to hear them.
The train has started a long climb into the mountains surrounding the valley.
The valley stretches as far as the eye can see in a neat checker board pattern, dotted with homes and places of worship; the colors are vibrant today in the spring sunlight.
We must pass though a very long tunnel to emerge on the Lake Ohrid side just above the village of Lim. What this means is we took a "right" to Pogradec instead of taking a left and entering Macedonia; we are very close to the border as we descend into lowlands surrounding Lake Ohrid.I never tire in seeing this majestic lake and the mountains of Macedonia which tower over and reflect off of the water.
The lake is on our left as we head towards our destination of Pogradec, and yes, no trip would be complete without an introduction to an Albanian bunker; and this one is "strategically" on the water's edge in a farmers field.
The lake is heavily fished from the Albanian side; there are many small fishing boats on shore today and the usual fishermen selling their catch alongside the road.I have failed to mention that we are on a mission to eat lunch in Pogradec and fish is the reason!
As the train is coming into the yard area of the Pogradec station, we are reminded that man is still dependent on his donkey or horse to accomplish much of his labor.
We have made it to Pogradec! Into the mini-van we go and off to the restaurant for lunch. The restaurant is located right on the water inside the Millenium Hotel. The menu is set and we are ready to eat; traditional Byrek, roasted peppers, salad and for me veal. Those that chose the fish are served a ceramic pot full of "Koran" amongst tomatoes, onions and other vegetables and spices. Not too much talking, except for requests to pass a dish of food to someone else. Good beer and wine, with a most pleasant staff, a superb view of Lake Ohrid, and excellent food...thumbs up here.
After lunch we walk across the street to see a fish ladder/pen of trout and Koran with a fresh water creek from the mountains running down the ladder into Lake Orhid. In addition to the fish ladder, this restaurant has a pond with swans, geese and ducks swimming around waiting to be fed by the visiters and poolside diners.
Our walking tour/pursuit of coffee trek, then returns to the road where we will walk to the former summer residence in Pogradec of the once Communist Leader/Dictator Hoxha. The walk leads us past orchards and open farmland and a small village with an Orthodox Church.
If in Pogradec, plan to visit Hoxha's old haunts, you will not be disappointed. The property is well preserved, with water flowing on one side of the property and a lot of open space to walk and just unwind. There is an old footbridge that once carried people safely across the water; it stands deteriorating, partially collapsed, a slow natural death.
It is so quiet and peaceful on the deck next to the water; trees hang over us, just barely budding, weaving their branches above us. I bet this is a very cool place to sit in the summer with the trees overhead. I can understand why this was such a treasured retreat and why today, it is an important draw for tourists in Pogradec.
Arrangements have been made for a min-bus to pick us up and return us to Elbasan. The cost is 600 LEK per person; what a great deal and what a ride(I promise not to complain to Mike about his driving ever again!). We get a ride back from Elbasan with Mark and Martha; it has been a good day, a long day, a wonderful way to share a last adventure with Jack.
I heartily encourage you to take the Elbasan-Pogradec "bullet" Train; it is adventures such as this that reveal the real treasures of a country...its people. That said plan your trip with the weather in mind. There is no air conditioning on the train and I do not believe the passenger cars are heated. I would suggest to dress acccordingly in either summer(the heat) or in winter(you are climbing into the mountains). And on top of that, there is nothing like sticking your head out the window of a train!
This a photo of a cloud bank we encountered as we came over the mountains from Elbasan on the way to Tirana.If you look closely, you can see through the clouds in the middle.
