Roadtrip to Ulza

Our neighbor Mike invited us on a road trip up the Matit River valley to have lunch at a place called "Fredi's" by the shore of the reservoir. We would need to take the road to Kukes and then turn at the road leading to Burrell and Peshkopi, following a nice two lane,well sometimes 1-1/12 lanes depending on oncoming traffic.The weather again was not going to cooperate with us; it was cloudy/hazy backing up into the surrounding mountains.

The water is a beautiful blue-green behind the dam, with trees right to the water line; the current is barely visible and except for one man rowing a boat, the lake is empty. Complimenting the quietness of the lake is a visible absence of traffic and noise; windows down enjoying the view we follow the lines of the lake. Across the water, high on a hill is a large home with fruit trees and a garden; how do they get there, we see no roads or a way to cross the water...boats?

In the distance we see a line across the lake; make that a sliver of wood on metal wires; a suspension footbridge to be explored by us.

On closer inspection, maintenance has not been by to check the condition of the footbridge in some time!Mike just walks across like it was a Sunday stroll in Alexandria, while I watch bouncing and swaying on the other end. I can honestly say I was not comfortable walking on the bridge.When Mike returns he relates that there are two trails on the opposite side of the lake, one to the left and one to the right.

We stay on the road heading for a place to turn around and find our lunch stop, however, we cross a bridge and continue towards Burrell.

Looking back we see a small hill top village with modern buildings...we are curious and turn around, thus finding the village of Ulza and a rather large hydroelectric facility(read big dam!).The dam was constructed/completed in 1957 and it too has a large reservoir behind it, although the reservoir is low(not much rain this summer and fall).

A quick (not too many blocks/streets in Ulza) drive through the village reveals a new plaza with buildings, a modern Catholic Church and boats docked on the reservoir.The tour of Ulza was fast, even by our standards; we do slow on leaving to ask a local if we can take her picture. She is an elderly woman who is wearing traditional garments from this part of Albania. We ask her daughter to take the photographs and she smiles covers her mouth and tells her mother(I think it is mom), who breaks out into her own smile, adjusts her head covering and poses like a professional...so tiny and so proud; a quick thank you and we are off.

When we first entered Ulza, Mike caught sight of an old building he wanted to photograph, we missed it on the way into town, however, we did find it on the way out and the owner found us!!! Mike explains with his camera while the owner shakes his head and drives off; not far though, just around the corner where he can watch us(good judge of character!!).

Just down from the big dam, the river runs free until it is once again backed up behind the dam we spotted as we entered the valley.

Nature is also at work here, vines and trees overtaking a very old structure on the opposite side of the river. The vines appear to be holding the building together, or perhaps squeezing it until it collapses...not sure, I do know that nature will eventually prevail.

Back on the highway and finally to Fredi's, located on the side of the reservoir. Madlyn and Mike enjoy perfectly prepared trout and white wine; Madlyn and I have salad and we all have french fries; they apparently could not catch the pig as my meat dish never arrived, too bad I was hungry. Oh well, the food we did receive was excellent, well worth the short(read good day trip) drive from Tirana.

A last glance at my favorite bridge!

Valbone-The End of The Road

Last year about this time we took a four-wheel drive trip to Thethi and discovered a wonderful valley high in the Albanian Alps.While in Thethi, we were informed that it was possible to hike (about 4 hours for an able-bodied young climber and 6-8 plus hours for others, read me!) over the mountain pass to see Valbone. Valbone is the other "crown-jewel" in the Albanian Alps.

I was not too inclined to hike (although we did get new back packs) over the pass, however, we really wanted to go to Valbone; the question to be answered was car or ferry. Since this was our first trip to Valbone, we opted to drive from Tirana to the Albania-Kosovo border in Morine; head for Prizren and take the road to Gjakove, through Korenice and Ponoshec to a Kosovo-Albania border crossing also named Morine!It was Madlyn's first trip through the "tunnel" and also her first visit to Kosovo. Once back into Albania, we made a drive through visit to Tropoje before heading off in the direction of Bajram Curri. The entrance into Bajram Curri was controlled from our direction by a single lane bridge over a beautiful blue river(Valbone).

Bajram Curri is the administrative center of the Tropoje district and is rather bland compared to the surrounding countryside. Oh, did I mention how clean the area was of litter and garbage; you do not see this eyesore as you travel through the Tropoje district and especially the Valbone River Valley, where they proudly "re-cycle" and it is posted for all to see as you enter the Valbone River Valley road! Speaking of the Valbone River Valley road; well, it is a major construction project to complete the road to the "end" (about 25 kilometers); fully graded; flood control protected; and asphalt on a hard packed gravel bed. The potential the road completion project means for the valley residents, is in my opinion limitless; the door is open to tourism in a major way with the completion of the road.

We are of course cruising along the gravel valley road at about 25-30 kilometers per hour (15-18 miles per hour) stopping every five to ten minutes to peer into the chasm below where the blue-green water roars past the chalky white boulders. It is not a lot cooler in the afternoon on the road than Bajram Curri below; the air though, it tingles your nose it is so fresh. The mountains are beginning to surround us and press against our "space"; you do not look at the mountains, you strain to see straight up the sides as they tower over the valley.

We are going to the "end" of the Valbone River Valley road; a road that suddenly ends at a huge rock cage berm...beyond is white rock and a large 4x4 taking hikers to the jump off point for the climb over the mountains into the valley of Thethi.
I pull into the river rock to turn around and head for the Rilindja (Rebirth) Hotel and Guesthouse; which we passed on our way to the end of the road, and which is our home while we are in Valbone! The hotel will cost 34Euro per night; this gets us a double room with bath and an awesome breakfast in the morning and the special delight of engaging conversation with Catherine Bohne (catherine@journeytovalbona.com); the partner of owner Alfred Selimaj. Catherine is from Brooklyn and the former owner of a book store in Brooklyn; she has been in Albania about two years( you will need to travel to Valbone to hear Catherine's serendipitous story of how she found herself/destiny to be in Albania...it is worth the drive!).

Upon arrival at the hotel, we meet some of the staff from the Albanian State Police Human Resources Sector on Admissions. The Leader (real rank) of the sector is one of the most enlightened individuals I have met while in Albania; he also is from the Valbone Valley and quizzes me to make sure I see and do all I can while in Valbone. The group is off for coffee and a tour and we are eager for dinner; we agree to see each other later in the evening at the hotel.
Dinner is served on the deck; Korca Dark Beer(ice cold, thumbs up)for me, a Merlot for Madlyn as we await our meal. Madlyn has fresh caught trout (the fish pond is just off the deck and would be the scene of my dog, yes Gracie, trying to grab a fresh caught as it lay flopping in the grass, fortunately the fish and dog both escaped the encounter!) and I have pork filets. Both are excellent and as we enjoy the company of Catherine, she produces a surprise of Fli (cream/crepe dessert) that has fresh mountain Thyme honey drizzled over the top; this is wonderful and I mean wonderful, what a treat for us. We also enjoy the "floor show"; our waiter in an ongoing attempt to keep the cows from eating the front lawn, chases them with a stick...never catches them!

We are off to bed early tonight; windows open the cool evening breeze; the laughter from the covered patio; and Fli for all of the Albanian State Police guests. Up early the next morning to watch the staff fish for trout in the pond; when asked about netting the fish, the reply concerns the pleasure of "catching" the trout! Our breakfast is eggs and sausage; with fresh bread, mountain berry jam; Thyme honey and fresh butter and of course coffee for Madlyn.

A short walk down the Valbone River bank; past washed out boulders, stacked upon each other; uprooted trees and blue-green water flowing down towards the valley floor. The river is asleep as we walk on the bank; however, as far I can see down the sides of the Valbone,the power of the melting snow drives the river over its' banks and it destroys/re-arranges all in it's path...it must be a sight to see in the Spring.

We have decided (after conversation with Catherine) to follow the road out through Bajram Curri to Fierze, and then Puke and on to SH1 (the road back to Tirana). This decision will involve a 4-6 hour drive through the mountains of north-central Albania; on a road that will vary in places, dirt to two well paved lanes and all in between!All of the road is doable and you do not need a 4x4 all the way.

We pass the docking ferry at Breglume and after a long switch-back climb we are on top of a massive dam/resevoir that reaches all the way back to Kukes.

Let me explain the ensuing drive that we enjoyed as we crossed through the north-central mountains of Albania; hundreds upon hundreds of switch backs and sharp turns; animals around the blind corner, laying on the road;small villages tucked between the mountains; some farms appeared to be glued to the side of the hills; and a spectacular view of the stored water spreading out before us like many fingers.

We are searching for a restaurant outside of Darhde called the Alpin Hotel & Restaurant to stop for lunch. Catherine has told us that the food is good and the view is great; well, the food was not so good (thumbs down), the view incredible and a special guest for lunch. A small fawn come to our table and Gracie and she just stared at each other, neither knowing what to do about the other;the fawn, eventually walked away from our table.

Back on the road through Puke and finally the intersection with SH1 and a straight shot to Tirana.
Valbone is a must if you plan to visit Albania; along with Thethi, jewels in the rough in Albania. Remember if you visit, "pack it in and pack it out" because they recycle in Valbone. Whether you decide to drive or take the ferry, the destination is worth the journey; bring your imagination and a good book (so quiet there); and also bring a camera...wow.

Yep, the "end of the road", behind Madlyn and the car is the mountain that separates Valbone from Thethi, but,that is another story and a different adventure.