The return visit to Berat was a pleasant drive from Tirana with Madlyn, Mike and Sarah(who is visiting from George Washington University on a research project in Albania focusing on domestic violence)in our rented Opel SUV. The weather is perfect with expected temperatures in the low 70s; clear and cool; the drive takes us about two hours today. The castle(actually referred to as a citadel) looks so different under sunny skies; the massive walls are not a muted grey and the homes within the walls stand out with the brown and faded orange roofs.
It is the first visit for all except me and so we wander together through the castle; although each seems intent on photographing the castle in their own way! The city of Berat, below the castle is very vibrant today, the sun and clouds are not in play today. The Orthodox Cathedral and central Mosque; almost side by side stand out in the city.
So around the old castle we trek, closely pursued by a tour group, and an army of cameras...do we all capture the same picture from the same spot? Not sure I know the answer to this one. The ruins are in good form today; the weather cooperates, so climbing and posing; and finding the one spot for the photograph of the day is easy.
The walls protect eight medieval churches and a still functioning small village of homes, museum, Orthodox Monastery(ruins), two Mosques (the Red Mosque in ruins)and small shops. One of the churches(Holy Trinity from the 13-14th century) overlooking the valley below is one of the most photographed buildings in Albania.
Climbing up the stairs past the church, we come to an open area and a small cafe under some trees. A stop reveals a man from Berat who walks up the hill to the area of the ancient cistern, which I missed on my first visit. He takes me to the stairs and I follow him down into a massive chamber where the temperature is quite cool and the water in the cistern still very deep. The curved arches still support an intact brick ceiling and moss covers some of the pillars supporting the dome.It is difficult to visualize the immense size of the cistern; it is a great example of ancient engineering.
Back up the stairs and over to the cafe, where we meet a very talkative 13-14 year whose father has just shown us the cistern. The conversation covers the citadel and Berat and also the surrounding mountains and especially the area around Mount Tomorri; including the Osumi Canyons and the Kulmaka teqe(one of the holiest sites of Bektashism), where the Bektashi saint Abaz Aliu is buried. We are encouraged by our hosts to visit these sites as they are true treasures of Albania.We promise to come back and follow the road to to the Canyons and up Mount Tomorri.
A walk through the center of the old village to return to the front gate leads past high walls and ancient churches; grape vines hanging over the walls; roof tiles so old...if the tiles could talk,perhaps, a good story over Raki!
We decide to head for the Ethnographic Museum before it closes today.It is worth the short drive down the ancient road on the "backside" of the castle; and the two-hundred Leke entry fee per person. The museum is empty except for us and we are allowed a "couple" of photographs inside the museum!
Right away it is apparent that being not heard or seen by males isn't working for Madlyn and Sarah; Mike being nearly 6'3" has to really bend down to make it through the doorways.We do discover a Raki distillation process just outside the main lower door and under cover of the second floor.
The second floor "balcony" comprises a large open room for gatherings.
It is bright of color; resembling a 1960's family room with red shag carpet; and the ceiling is supported by exposed natural trees, that have not been milled.The beams create a most unusual geometric pattern, as there are no straight lines.
The tour of the Ethnographic Museum is over before we know it and Mike decides to photograph the tour guide sheets for future reference. To the rescue comes the Museum Director who said he would email the information to Mike; good thing for us as the photos are not working out. The Museum is surrounded by white walls and manicured gardens; some of which still have roses in bloom.
I should also mention that today is Mike's birthday and we are taking him to dinner at the Magalemi Hotel and Restaurant. It just so happens that the Magalemi is a very short walk from the Museum; in no time cold beer and wine; and dinner is on the table.For dessert we have a honey infused walnut cake that should really be shared and not eaten by one person; I believe Mike is the only one who finishes his/her piece!
Berat is nearly four thousand years old; a strategic location in a highly disputed part of the ancient world. From the top of the mountain occuppied by the citadel, you can literally see for miles in almost every direction; and as you look around Berat, you see the old city homes climbing the mountain overlooking the Osumi River and up high the walls of the citadel. A visit to Berat is a must; easy drive from Tirana; great location and sights; food is excellent and if you are a wine lover, the Cobo Winery(about 15 kilometers) is on the return road to Tirana.
We do stop at Cobo and have a nice tour with the owner; some wine tasting and of course some wine to take home with us(Cobo-Mesi i Urave, Kashmer); which is a Cabernet, Merlot,Shesh i Zi blend. A pleasant red wine, goes well with pasta and not too heavy meat(in my opinion!).
All in all a most enjoyable adventure for Madlyn and me; with a new friend Sarah, and with Mike, our birthday dude!!
Not really sure what Mike was saying to me!!
