Sometimes the best laid plans go astray, such is our experience in Delvine; where an Albanian State Police officer, a gentleman from Greece and finally a gas station attendant advise us that we must return 14 kilometers (almost back to Saranda) and take the turn at the intersection that heads east and then north through the mountains.
The road through the mountains take us past a large hydro-electric facility and beautiful countryside; with twisting roads; and to add a little excitement to the drive,people stopping on this narrow road(I mean both lanes blocked) and taking water containers to be filled with water from mountain sources.
That said, no one prepared us for the dramatic view of the Drinos valley as we came over the east side of the mountains; including the bunkers dotting the landscape.Like rivets on a green fabric the bunkers spread out across the valley.
One of the larger bunkers was situated next to a restaurant and had a couple of street lamps in front of it!
Directly across the road from this bunker runs the Drinos River. Where we are standing the area is somewhat overgrown with scrub trees and flowering vines. On second glance we spot the historic bridge that spans the river just south of Gjirokastra.
Up the hill we drive in the direction of the castle of Gjirokastra; the castle dominates the hill and the surrounding town as well as affording the inhabitants of the castle great visual control of the valley below.
The road is narrow, although it opens into a large parking area/square that affords a beautiful view back down the mountainside. The stone roofs of the town add a different dimension to Gijorkastra; from design to color, the slate tile roofs are unique to this part of Albania.
The first item on the agenda is food and as luck would have it we discover the Cajupi Hotel that overlooks the square and the town. The reception desk directs us to the elevator and the fourth floor restaurant open to a view of the town spilling down the mountain .
The restaurant service is excellent; we are seated near an open window; the beer is cold; the food is great (Cliff gets a traditional sausage dish, which he really enjoys)and the waiter takes a great group shot of us!On top of all of this fun,
I get a tour of the hotel to check out the rooms for future visits; and a National Geographic Traveler: The Western Balkans-Land of Discovery scenic guide...beautiful photography.
We have eaten; we are ready to tackle the castle and the museums inside the castle. We drive up a cobblestone road to the gate and pay our entry fee for the castle(museum is separate charge) which dates back to the 6Th century and has served many masters, including the Ali Pasha Tepelena. The castle houses cannons from WWI through WWII on the first floor; which is dark and the cannons look like cannons; we move quickly through the hallway which appears to originally have been a stable or storage area for animals.
This is an Italian Tank manufactured by Fiat in 1938; it is a two-man vehicle...you better be short to fit into this one! This is the only military piece I photographed in this part of the castle.
Our next stop will be the War Museum and we must pay an additional fee to enter.We are eager to see this part as it also houses the famous prison and murals to Albanian freedom fighters; it is not a disappointment, the museum is a step back to the WWII era and post WWII Communist nation. Present within the museum are Albanian, Italian, and German small arms from the great conflict; and statues and paintings to the heroes of Albania.
Passing through the museum, the guide opens a door into the hallway leading to the prison cells. The cells are empty today, some have writing on the cell walls commemorating those who came and died here and those that survived the harsh treatment (read from all times; especially though, under the Germans and Communist era). I have been in several old prisons; McNeil and Alcatraz Federal prisons and the old Multnomah County Facility; it still gives me the creeps.
It is time to get back into the sunshine and walk along the perimeter and grounds of the castle.Surprisingly there are very few other people visiting the castle today and it feels like we are alone within its' walls. We walk the length towards the eastern wall that faces the Drinos valley. In one corner is a clock tower; time has stopped for this clock high above the valley.
As we walk across the large open area within the walls, we pass the carcass of a T-32two seater jet trainer; oh, it has a large USAF on the fuselage. It was forced to land in the late 1950s' and was used as an example of intended US aggression towards the Communist government of Hoxha; I do have to admit it is strangely out of place in this ancient fortress!
The courtyard of the castle has a large modern stage in the middle and the castle is used for musical festivals...what an incredible location, from up here all you would have would be the stars above. Passing the stage, we walk to the corner beyond the clock tower, following a worn cobblestone road that winds into the mountain. The tunnel in front of us is not dark and appears to be lighted from in front of where we are standing.
Down the tunnel we go into a chamber that appears to have housed cannons for defense of the castle. You can see how large the openings for the cannons were located and also Dodie standing there too!
Back above ground we climb the southern side of the castle where there are many remnants of building foundations, some with walls and some with a roof. A row of beautiful arches line the way; they are massive and in good repair. It is surprisingly cool under the arches and around several walls that have arches built into them at the base of the wall; it appears to some sort of cooling system as the air emanating from the arches in the walls is almost chilly to us.
The grounds of the castle are worn from use and in need of attention; this is a remarkable ancient structure; hopefully it will receive the care and upkeep necessary to survive the tourists who will come to visit. Back inside the walls, the sun jumps through another arched window by an old entry gate.
Inside the castle walls is a small shrine/mosque that we respected and did not intrude on a person paying homage and prayers...it is again, seemingly out of place in this fortress that houses a war museum.
Unfortunately, we have to hit the road and return to Saranda. Cliff and Dodie leave in a couple of days for home, so this will be our last night in Saranda; tomorrow we leave for Tirana; passing through Vlore and Fier (where we had a great lunch).
We have had a great three day adventure in southern Albania; from Saranda to Butrint to Gjirokastra; wow, what wonderful sights we have seen; food beyond description and (thumbs up) beer appropriately cold...only thing missing was Madlyn.
Yep, we spot the bunkers on the climb back over the mountains.
Just think... in less than a month I will be there on all your adventures.. Love, M
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