Mike is driving today as we race to beat the incoming storms from the North Adriatic Sea. We are also testing our Garmin Navigation system for Albania. I have just updated with the 2010 maps of Central and Eastern Europe. The information posted lists only "major" roads in Albania; this is fine as we will stay on the coastal highway from SH4 to Fier and the main South route to Vlore/Saranda. Wow, what a surprise; no road designations from Vlore all the way to Saranda. Obviously Garmin has determined that this road that carries thousands of vehicles a day during the summer is not a "major' road in Albania. The Garmin will prove to be a nice color picture in the dash until we cross the mountains from Saranda to Gjirokastra and reconnect with SH4; which, by the way is not of the quality of the coastal road...hopefully an update is coming!
We make a lunch stop in Vlore at the Hotel Paradiso (yep, really like this place; I have eaten here many times and it is excellent), where even Gracie has a nice break and something cool to drink.
Back on the road, and the heat of July when I last visited this part of Albania has been replaced by clouds; cool breezes; and once over the mountains; fog appears...love this stuff and the subtle and not so subtle changes it brings to the landscape.
This trip will also be a return to the Hotel Brilant in Saranda.I stayed at the Hotel Brilant in July with my friends Cliff and Dodie. I really liked the location of the Hotel; just above and across the road from the entrance to the promenade(about 50yards), it is a short walk. The Hotel Brilant is clean (read very clean); a "three star" Hotel (not really sure of how the ratings are applied); a basic continental breakfast and a sometimes on/off wi-fi!
It is definitely cooler in Saranda; the storm clouds are somewhat visible in the north and the breeze is stronger coming off the Ionian Sea. However, with a less dominating sun in the sky, the picture taking has some interesting opportunities(really apparent in Gjirokastra) as the colors are "cooler".
Mike has to work in the morning, so Madlyn and I walk the promenade for a "lite" dinner of vegetarian pizza and and drinks. Excellent crust on the pizza and lots of eggplant and peppers too. To top it off; gelatto at a small stand on the way back to the hotel; strawberry and hazelnut for Madlyn and double chocolate for me...never too much chocolate!
By late morning we are off to Butrint with very dark and menacing clouds above and behind us. The road from Saranda to Butrint is still a bumpy-under-construction road; a lot of potential once completed. On our left (East) is Lake Butrint and obvious aqua-culture occurring; we can see men in boats tending the enclosed areas of the lake.
It is obvious that this is an important industry in this region of Albania as aqua-farms are visible in the surrounding Ionian Sea in protected areas in great abundance.
Along the way, we stop at a dirt road that leads towards the Ionian Sea and a great view of Corfu. However,we are blocked by a poorly constructed gate manned by two gentlemen drinking Raki(Albanian Grappa) and one man watching his herd of dairy cattle. The road is not open to vehicle traffic, however, we are allowed to walk this road, which opens into a huge seaside development(entry point/secured gate) which appears to have been frozen in time.
A prominent posting is visible; detailing initial construction and completion(missed this one) dates; a complete map of the proposed development and view lots available for sale!
And what a view the inhabitants of this community will possess; to the Southwest is Corfu and directly South is Saranda!It even has a small cove that is partially blocked to create a tidal swimming pool.
This community, if finished will be situated on a point of land that will afford views of the cruise ships sailing into Corfu and the night lights of both Corfu and Saranda for viewing pleasure. The new road between Saranda and Butrint should be a new opportunity for this development.Ok, enough real estate updates from Albania.
I still need a close up or two of the Ali Pasha's Castle(did not get it in July); and if anyone will attempt the goat-trail road, Mike will! We careen down the road,firm in our belief that we will get close enough to the Castle for a decent photograph and we do!
In addition, we "discover" a small collection of large bunkers(not much of a surprise)and an old building situated directly across(really brings the neighborhood down) from the Ali Pasha's Castle.The location of the bunkers is quite strategic in proximity to Greece and the Ionian sea.
Who knows what you will find in this country once you are off the main trail; this by itself, makes Albania such an adventure...you do not know what is a round the next corner as quite as often as not, what you "find" may not even be found on a map given to tourists.Being safe and being curious can go hand-in-hand, however, being prudent and respectful in a foreign country should be your overiding "rule for survival".
We made it to Butrint just ahead of the storm clouds to voices of Americans and other English speakers; from three large buses that are ferrying passengers from the cruise ships docked in Corfu...you can tie your day visit in Corfu to a journey to Butrint, and it is well worth the trip!
I am including only a couple of photos of Butrint; the first is from the corner of the Basilica near the knave. The tiles are covered plastic and sand to protect them from the elements; you can see the vivid colors that still reside in the 1400 hundred year old floor. There are so many structures within Butrint with incredible tile floor and ceiling coverings(most are protected, however, some of the tiles are exposed to the elements).
This tile setting is part of a curved ceiling in a cutout/apse area of an old fountain and is of a dark blue ewer/pitcher. It is part of three tiles set in a similar way and in the best condition of the three.
By the way, UNESCO recently (read last week)made a visit to Butrint over the condition and care of the site; rumor has it UNESCO left very unhappy as Butrint is a "World Heritage" site. The reality is, how can you expect this small nation to care for these treasures without some assistance and guidance; Butrint is a national treasure, however, costs to maintain and continue excavating may be beyond the budget of Albania.
The thunderstorms caught us in the Venetian Fort after we had walked through the wonderful museum in the basement/mainlevel of the fort. A dash down the stairs was quickly halted when yours truly nearly slipped and fell down the stairs. the rain was really refreshing and we did not get that wet.
Next part of the adventure was the ferry ride and the drive to Xarre and heading Northwest up the valley to Saranda. Mike commented that the wide grassland area we were passing had been used by the Venetian Cavalry for grazing their horses. The road has been completely paved all the way to intersection that connects with the Saranda-Gjirokastra road. It took about 30 minutes to get to the intersection from Xarre.
Madlyn and Mike had not seen the Castle of Gjirokastra; so on the way home we made a stop to visit the city and have lunch. The city in the cooling effect of the rain(both temperature and color) looks so different than under the heat of summer.
With the rain we stayed inside the covered portion of the castle and made a surprising discovery. Just to the right of the entrance to the Museum are a pair of 10ft tall doors that were padlocked; on the way back from the Museum, the doors were unlocked, so in went Mike and then Madlyn and finally Gracie and me.
Well, behind door number one was an art gallery; that is an art exhibition featuring a Greek artist who painted using a pallet knife. From my perspective, some very unique landscapes of Gjirokastra and the castle, however, I really liked(so did Madlyn) a vase with poppies he had done. Vibrant colors bursting forth; I can almost feel the poppies leaning towards me; short story, it is on our apartment wall!
The trip back to Tirana involved traveling on SH4 from Gjirokastra to Fier. The road was in excellent condition all the way to Tepelena; at this point our adventure took a turn for the worst. the road until arriving at the main intersection to head North towards Durres was in pretty poor condition; many delays and dangerous areas to drive; that said a massive project is underway to widen SH4 all the way from Gjirokastra to Fier. I sure hope I am here long enough to make that trip; what a difference solid; well built and adequately wide enough roads add to a drive! A bit of closure with the Garmin; it did effectively track SH4 from Gjirokastra to Fier; definitely needs upgrading, especially in light of the rapid road development in Albania.
Hey Mark,
ReplyDeleteI was reading your (old) email, and realized you told me about this blog but I had missed the URL my first five readings. I found it, though, and now I have some reading to catch up on. Great pictures by the way, I love the gate from the great age of iron or maybe steel. What an interesting corner of the world you are in. Keep it coming... DB