Heraklea-Linkestis

The exposed foundations; and remaining pillars of Heraklea.

 

 The sunlight is perfect; with a few clouds to defuse the intensity of the afternoon sun as we pull into the absolutely empty parking lot of Heraklea-Linkestis ( Linkestis, in reference to the original inhabitants of the area). I mention to Laurence that it appears to be closed and we may have to walk around the fenced perimeter of this storied ancient city. Laurence spots an open gate and we head towards a ticket booth when suddenly a head pops into view inside the booth and hands beckon us to come into the site. The gentleman inside the booth is happy to see us and from the looks of the area, we may be his only customers this afternoon.

 

A mosaic of a goose that has been repaired and repositioned in the path way.

 

I must pay a fee to take photographs of Heraklea, and we must both pay an admission fee. The gentleman asks we would like a guide and we politely say, "no thank you"; well, the gentleman nods his head; stands up and exits the booth locking it behind and proceeds at great length to explain the history of Heraklea in Macedonian to Laurence and me! This not quite what I thought was going to happen, however, he is so excited to show Heraklea (speak Macedonian) we just follow him. Fortunately all signage inside Heraklea is displayed in Macedonian and English.

The ruins of the Portico of Heraklea.

 

Heraklea's ( named after Hercules) history starts with it's founding by Philip II of Macedonia in the mid 4th century BC.The Romans took control in the 2nd century BC; the Via Egnatia and the Diaganol Way intersect in Heraklea and because of this strategic element, Heraklea was used by Julius Caesar during his conquests in the Balkans. The city of Heraklea suffered as the Roman rule and control declined; it was sacked several times; and was finally abandoned by the inhabitants in 518 AD after a devastating  earthquake struck the city.

 

A view towards the remains of the Great Basilica.







 





Heraklea spreads from the flat lands up the side of a small hill; to west large mountains that provided a cooling breeze through the valley where Heraklea was built (per our most animated tour guide; never did get his name). The site is minimally excavated and the most "precious" finds have been removed to the National Museum in Skopje and also to Bitola. The road leading to this incredible site is mainly dirt; signage is minimal; however, the work is progressing slowly; and from what I have been able to determine, it is an ongoing archaeological work in progress, that is being led by an Italian team.

 The outer walls of the Byzantine Fountain.

 

I am trying to keep up with the "tour guide" who nimbly jumps from foundation wall to the next adjoining ancient arm of mortar, brick and stone. He has gone back around to the floor of the Great Basilica and is moving the small pebbles with his feet and gesturing with his finger that below the pebbles and plastic covering is a large "mosaic" that covered the floor of the basilica. It is covered during the winter months and according to my assistant is uncovered for a short period during the summer months (mental note to self to return and get photos). This approach is also used in Butrint, Albania to cover and protect a very larger circular mosaic (this is done as the cost to cover each mosaic with a permanent structure is beyond the means of the respective governments).

 

The floor of the Great Basilica is built on top of the ancient Greek and Roman foundations and is elevated as a result (our guide crawled down and pointed out the Greek and Roman supports).

 

The pebble covering you can see in the photograph covers three very large areas in the former Great Basilca.

The well from the Byzantine; notice the grooves in the stone.

 

The guide bends down and leans towards the well; throws his arms out front and begins to pull back to his body; reaches down and acts like his is picking up a bucket drinks from it; this guy is great, he could pack in  the tourists all by himself. By this time Laurence and I have decided we like this guy; and he has made our visit to Heraklea so  much more than it would have been if we had walked around the site alone (this is gonna cost me in the end!).

 

The floor of the Episcopal Residence; and it too is covered to protect the mosaic underneath.

 

By the 4th century AD, Heraklea was the seat of the regional bishopric and of some importance to early Christianity in the region.
 

Looking down from the walkway leading to the ancient theater.

 

I am behind Laurence and the guide; catching up to them , Laurence is laughing and the guide has his arms raised and is growling, pointing to a large room below; we got the picture, lions in the house!

 

"Home" of the lions, according to our guide. I am thinking serious metal bars built into the arches.

 

The side of the hill overlooking Heraklea is home to a an ancient amphitheater that has been partially restored during the work that has been accomplished in unearthing Heraklea. The lions "den" is just below the theater and I suspect there was a tunnel that allowed access for the beasts to meet the gladiators/victims who were awaiting their arrival (When my  wife and I were in Seville, Spain, we visited "Italica" and the huge amphitheater that was part of this great city; in the middle of the amphitheater was an uncovered tunnel that led back to rooms within and beneath the walls of the arena. The Romans as far as I know built the amphitheaters/arenas with the same purpose in mind; entertaining the masses; and  as Romans they tended to stick with the same basic design concept.)

 

You can see directly above the doorway a flat wall and remnants of pillars; this is the "box" where the ruler of the city sat when attending "events" at the theater.

 

As I am walking around taking pictures, Laurence is standing behind me clapping; not everyone likes an audience, but what the heck; so turning around he motions me over and tells me stand on the "red" spot in the middle of the theater. Laurence has found the "acoustical" center of the stage; I clap once and the resonance is amazing; the clap literally leaps around the theater and when I speak, I can hear my voice amplified;  and this is accomplished through the engineering genius of the Greeks  who designed and built the theater (Quite possibly improved upon by the Romans).

 

A front row seat with a family name carved into the stone.

 

The guide opens the the small museum for us; he apologizes for so few items on display; once again referring to Skopje and Bitola. It is a nice museum; good lighting; English explanations for each exhibit; items from everyday life to "masks" from the theater.

 

A partially restored peacock mosaic from Heraklea.

 

A theater "mask" from Heraklea.

 

 



A statue of the Greek Goddess Athena.

 

We have one last stop before we leave Heraklea; the guide wants to show us the bath house and explain how the Romans were able to build a thermal heated bath house. Again, the bath house is constructed almost identically to the one in Butrint right up to the heating attachment; the stacked tiles, elevating the floor, creating a space for hot water to flow under the floor and send steam through the latticed tiles; the Romans were "Home Improvement" on steroids.

 

The floor supports for the "Thermae" in Heraklea.

 

When he has finished the explanation, the guide opens his arms and points to the ruins and announces Heraklea; he is really proud of his work; the history represented here and I believe he truly enjoyed showing us "his" city. We shake hands and thank him; Laurence after having "shaken me down" hands the guide a handsome tip; he tries to return it; and finally puts his hand across his heart and thanks us; as we walk away I know Laurence is thinking the same thought; we should be thanking the guide, as he made our day.

 

I remember seeing many fish mosaics in Italica, Spain.

 

 

It is a comfortable drive back to Skopje; no "cross-field" driving this time; only kilometers of country roads and a wide modern highway.

 

Heraklea is another "gem" in Macedonia's crown; it will not be long before some entrepreneur connects with the power of tourism; what it will mean to the people of Macedonia and to the Balkans; there is so much to see in this very small country; one day it will happen.