The vineyards leading to the Orthodox Church in Demir Kapija
It is a cold and damp March day in Macedonian when I set out in my new rental; a VW Polo; never knew you could fit so much into such a little package; talk about feeling the road; okay a little less feel would be nice. I am searching sort of without a plan; nothing new in my world; however, a bit risky when one is looking for wine; not just any wine; Macedonian Red wine of various varieties; Vranc, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, from wineries that are known for their outstanding quality of flavor (and all the snobby words people use to describe a great bottle of wine; I just know what I enjoy and so I will stick with that) and value for your money. Also, some research on Macedonian wine was conducted through the assistance of my wife; locating a 2012 article posted by "Hogshead"-A Wine Blog detailing the Macedonian Embassy in the United States hosting a tasting from eight wineries from Macedonia (a good read); and from the experience of living in the Balkans for the last three plus years enjoying Macedonian wine; and finally Macedonian wine has a great reputation amongst the internationals I know.
I hit the M1 out of Skopje heading southeast; now the M1 is a four lane toll highway that goes all the way to Thessaloniki in the south (in one form or another) and in the opposite direction you can venture to Belgrade to the north or Sofia to the east. I need to find the exit for the city of Gradsko; located just east of the highway (south of the larger city of Veles and north of Negotino); Gradsko is home to the Stobi winery and the historic Roman ruins of the ancient city of Stobi; located and thus very commercially important at the crossing of the Via Egnatia, Via Axis and the Via Diagonale.
The ruins of the Roman city of Stobi
I took this with a very large lens as I could not get into the site; it was closed, tourist season is really not happening in March. The site is quite large and you see a covered area (ongoing archaeological effort; mainly funded through US donations); and the remains of the amphitheater are also visible.
Protected archaeological area of Stobi
Reversing course I head north on the secondary road towards Gradsko and the winery of Stobi. Gradsko is somewhat deserted; an aging railroad station on the east side of the road and a few cafes and businesses on the west side of the road; everyone is indoors or is hurrying to get inside as it has started to rain again. My Google map shows the Stobi Winery to be about 1-2 kilometers outside of Gradsko; so how much lost could one get in about 1 mile; returning back to Gradsko a few minutes later I was concerned that Google had done a flyby on this one! I stopped at a small local grocery for directions; no Macedonian for me and no English for the very nice clerk; well, we discovered that by using bags of candy the clerk could describe the building to me (somewhere between a Skittles "yellow" and the "brownish" look of a Kit-Kat bag); really now, who needs words when color works? The realization is I drove past the structure originally thinking it was a government facility due to the large gates; guards and concertina wire on top of the fence; this is definitely not Napa or the Chehelams in Oregon!
The Stobi Winery is a beautiful facility. Once past the security and upon entering the restaurant you can relax. I am greeted by the Hospitality Manager, Ilija Gjorgiev. I mention the lack of signage and sense of being welcome to visit the winery. With a quick smile, he replies that the winery has just received approval for a sign and that the sign would be in place in about one month. He quickly opens a bottle of Rkaciteli, Classic, Tikves ( a very light white wine with a pleasant taste) and explained the brief history of Stobi. I was taken on a private tour of the winery including a walk into the aging room loaded with new oak barrels (they get their oak from California, France and Macedonia). There was no sense of time (no "oldness") in the aging room; it was sterile; brightly lit; everything sparkling new; and did I mention large? I did purchase some red (advice from Jay and Luisa) and some of the Rkaciteli for my wife. The Stobi Winery is a nice facility; very much a contemporary "factory" look; hopefully it will "age".
More fields below Popova Kula Winery
The Bovin Winery is the next stop on my "cruise" through the wine country of Macedonia. I am heading for Negotino; dig out my Google map and once again have to stop for directions; no signs to show the way to the Bovin Winery. Bovin is arguably the best wine (remember my taste) in Macedonia; winning many international awards at wine festivals around Europe; and is priced accordingly. I finally locate the winery after I follow a "Bovin" wine truck back to estate. It is a small site compared to Stobi; very busy and very friendly; directions into the tasting room and business area where I wonder around for a few minutes before going upstairs and meeting Mr. Kostadin Kitanov (what a find); who escorts me into a tasting room/restaurant and in fluent English relates the "Bovin Story". He opens a bottle of Sauvignon (2012) that is obviously chilled (what's with always white wine?) and pours me a glass and he joins me and watches me as I take a sip of the white (smells wonderful, light color) and wow, where did this come from; he almost starts laughing when he sees my reaction; simply saying, "and you should try our red wine". The Sauvignon reminds me of the Elise that my wife and I picked up with friends several years ago in California; what a great summer wine for simply sipping; maybe cheese or something light (tuna salad); to my dismay the bottle we are drinking was the last one in this particular lot. I am now able to order over the Internet the next lot of Bovin Sauvignon 2012 (will do later today!). I pick up a couple bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique and Merlot Barrique. I also mentioned to Mr. Kitanov the lack of signage directing visitors to the winery; he responds that the winery sign will be up within the month, after design approval by local authorities.
Much of the land surrounding the vineyards is planted in fruit trees, such as apple, cherry & peach.
Mr. Kitanov carries my wine to the car; and wishes me a nice day and to please come back again for another visit; followed by directions to lead me south on the M1, for my next and final stop; Popova Kula Winery in Demir Kapilja.
I arrive in Demir Kapija and promptly pull into the wrong winery; when I ask if it is the Popova Kula Winery, the guard draws me a map to negotiate Demir Kapilja (how tough can it be, there are no traffic lights and only one turn). Less than 500 feet past the "wrong" winery is a sign pointing the direction to Kopova Kula; I follow the signs straight to the parking lot with nary a miscue on my part.
The view of the Popova Kula Winery as you approach from Demir Kapilja.
The Popova Kula Winery is situated on top of a hill overlooking the vineyards and the town of Demir Kapilja and is considered a "boutique" winery. The winery opened in 2005; in 2009 a restaurant and hotel were added to the winery. This winery is now a favorite retreat in the summer for residents of Skopje as it is normally quite a bit cooler than the capitol city. I was given a tour of the restaurant; hotel rooms; and an opportunity to go up into the large tower that dominates the winery and affords a tremendous view of the surrounding slopes covered in vineyards and fruit trees.
Looking south from the tower windows of Popova Kula Winery.
I pass on another offered sample of white wine and again focus on purchasing a Cabernet and Vranc from the hostess. Just a note; the last part of the road from Demir Kapilja deteriorates into a typical "farm" road (high center, low wheel ruts crafted by a tractor no less).
It is interesting driving back that I realize the two lanes heading north are in really poor condition for a highway with posted speeds of 120-130 KPH (72-78 mph). My assistant later tells me the road was used by NATO forces during the Balkan Conflict and as a result chewed up the road; he said Macedonia is still waiting for NATO to pay for the repair of the road. Fortunately, my wine made it safely back to Skopje.
This was an easy day trip from Skopje to the wine country of Macedonia; I neglected to point out the availability of great restaurants in the towns hosting the wineries and the important fact that during the "tourist" season, most wineries have their own restaurants open and serving good food and wine. I have only "dipped" my toe in the water; so many more wineries and with the weather starting to clear, so many archaeological sites to "discover".
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