Apollonia - Fieri

The last day of February 2010 and we are off to Apollonia, founded in the 6th Century BCE by colonists from Corinth, Greece. Apollonia is located about 20-25 minutes outside of Fieri, which is about 113 kilometers south-west of Tirane. We cross the Semani River into Fieri and take the Semani Road to the turnoff to Apollonia.

Almost immediately after turning onto the road to Apollonia, we spot a farmer walking his cow in the middle of the road; and a collection of Cold War bunkers. We spy a bunker with a welcoming sign and being the adventurous(read nosy) individuals we are, decide to investigate.
In defense of Mike, he did not vandalize this relic of past madness, he just wanted to say hello to his mom! Looking around the bunker we discover it has been converted into a "barn" and sleeping quarters.
The scenery is limited by the punctuation of bunkers in a pattern around this larger bunker.
As we neared Apollonia we became very aware of the extensive bunker system that existed in Albania and dubbed the surrounding area around Apollonia, "The Valley of Bunkers".
The northern entrance way into the city of Apollonia suffered significant damage as a result of the siting of a large military installation of gun emplacements and tunnels.
The welcoming committee to Apollonia was not much on pomp and circustance, more of a laid-back approach to tourists; we felt really at home with these guys! Apollonia suffered a natural disaster in ancient times when the Vjosa River shifted course further to the South, causing the loss of the harbor of Apollonia. This strange change of geography would hasten the demise of a city that could trace it's origins to the 13th Century BCE.

In reality, Apollonia is a treasure; it is truly a wow moment when you exit the parking lot and look North and see, through the massive olive trees the rebuilt columns of the 2nd Century AD administrative center(bouleuterion). We start up the hill towards the bouleuterion and the theater situated behind it; which is built into the surrounding hillside. The back of the surviving columns reveal fine detail on the crowning pieces of the administrative center. The columns have been restored and some of the writing over the entry is legible.

We walk through the theater complex and over to the eastern wall of Apollonia, which has a commanding view of the Valley of Bunkers.It is a stunning view looking north-east towards Fieri with the mountains in the background.


We climb the hill to the highest point in Apollonia, the acropolis, to discover a great cafe and fellow sightseers from the International School(read an American and family from Iowa) and several members of the EU. The cafe is named for Leon Ray, the first person to excavate Apollonia and, he is responsible for many of the significant discoveries here. We also meet two dogs in the yard of the cafe. Have you ever noticed how you become a dog's best friend for for the moment when you feed them? Well, Mike and I had two best buddies for at least an hour as we shared our lunch of pork ribs, salad and fried potatoes with the dogs. Oh, the beer was cold and good; another thumbs up place! Inside the cafe is a wall with a display of spears. I am not sure of the historical significance of these items, however, I do not think they were handed down from father to son.

Back down the hill through the olive trees and back through the theater towards the 13th Century Byzantine Monastery located near the old South gate of Apollonia. We take a different path (read goat path) back to the adminstrative center which affords us a unique view of the theater and the center. The theater is in very good condition and after some positioning(Mike sits in the middle and I walk to the "stage" area), we determine that the sound travels remarkably well even today. In a normal voice from the stage, I can carry on a regular conversation with Mike who is sitting half-way up the theater.


The monastery is a real surprise to both of us. Upon entering the very old wooden doors, we see to our left rows of Roman statues that include headless young men; lions; robed women and a number of adult figures. The statues are not behind fences or locked up; they are protected by plastic tape!

A look around the courtyard reveals a vast array of remnants from Apollonian walls and columns. The church has a cornerstone engraved with Greek writing and the walls are contructed of brick and ancient stones from another time(read Greek and Roman).
Inside the church, moisture and time have taken a toll on the ceiling fresco; to the point that you cannot make out the biblical reference.The church is of very traditional design and very simple in interior furnishings. It is beautiful in its' simplicity of appearance and design. The icons line the walls, with candles lit; the altar is covered and the incense burners silent...Mike and I are the only ones inside and we have the opportunity to take some beautiful photographs.
Mike is working on a 360 degree collage while I study the icons and the sunburst pattern on the floor.
We are trying to stay out of each others photographs and are giving each other directions in a most cautious manner. I exit the church and catch a glimpse of the carved arches supporting the west entry into the church. The arches look like nothing else in Apollonia.
The limestone of Apollonia came from 70 kilometers away while the sandstone was quarried nearby.

We exit the monastery and pay our 3 LEK($3.00) for admission and head for the North gate of Apollonia and hopefully the large theater complex.

The drive to the North gate is longer than I had expected. It appears to me that Apollonia was a sizable city and was well fortified.The North gate retaining wall and part of the street is still visible and usable. We walk up the road to the barren top and the Albanian military ruins.

Mike and I discuss that it would be something to suggest that this modern and ancient place could be a site where the past and contemporary past are brought together and a park created on the old Albanian military site. We have still not located the Apollonian Theater. We are not too concerned, as we has misplaced a 10,000 seat Amphitheater in Durres; this is nothing new to us!

As luck would it have(man are we lucky) we spot the theater complex as we come down the hill from the North gate.
It is much larger than we had anticipated and begs for a return trip to Apollonia with Hector and Martha to fully scope this place out. Not only that, we want to introduce them to our new canine buddies(wonder if they will remember us?) for a day!

The drive back is an opportunity to stop and contribute to the local economy by purchasing some fresh produce from locals selling by the side of the road.Today, we get carrots, very sweet carrots by the way! Normally the trip back is uneventful, this time, we get banged slightly by a driver near the Prime Minister's place...back to the Embassy, local police(one is from Michigan) and Mike...I get to go home this time, Mike waves me off and says he's okay as the officer from Michigan will get him home. I think the next trip I might be driving...