Tirana-After The Rains

I woke up Saturday morning to a mixture of rain and snow falling in Tirana. This after a long week of heavy rainfall that reminded me I wasn't in Las Vegas anymore! I have an umbrella, I mean a super strong bright yellow umbrella emblazoned with the DHL logo. Normally I am not into the "walking sandwich board" look, however, at this point in my life I rather be dry than worry what others think about my super bright yellow DHL logo'd umbrella!!!

I explained to some of my Albanian counterparts the significance of celebrating President's Day in the United States. Since there were two English colleagues present a slight spin was added; an explanation that we were celebrating "revolution day" caught the ears of the Albanians and a response from the English of a laugh and finger waving and we will get you for that one!

Hector, one of the other advisers took me to the Kaon Brewery for lunch on Saturday. The food was quite good(had veal chops), although I have to give the establishment a thumbs down. An explanation forthcoming; the Amber Ale served was not temperature appropriate and the taste, well there was no taste...what a bummer. As some of you know, I am from Oregon(we do beer there); well Hector is from Colorado Springs(read Fat Tire) and let's say he has a finely tuned beer palate. The saving grace for the establishment is strange, as it is the home of the former Russian Embassy; I did check for cameras in the bathroom.



I love walking through the neighborhoods of Tirana. You never know what you may find or see adorning the walls. This particular Sunday took me to Skenderbey Square and the "all-languages" Library (read book store). I am in need of a pocket dictionary for English-Albanian and back again.

Skenderbey Square is an amazing gathering spot for Tirana; absolute pandemonium rules the traffic behavior. Pedestrians appear to be oblivious to the 15-20 year old Mercedes Benz that careen around the square without any concern for human life or traffic signals. Now the square itself is encircled by 1920-1940's era Italianate buildings a beautiful Mosque

and Communist era construction, which I neglected to capture. In the middle of the Square is a massive statue of Skenderbey and behind him you can see the dome of the new Orthodox Cathedral; coincidentally while I was taking pictures, the bell tower of the new Catholic Cathedral was ringing 12 noon.



Skenderbey Square is destined to be uprooted and a massive underground parking facility built with a new square emerging on top. The bonus is the new square will be pedestrian only and what a "family room" this will be for Tirana. As I look at it today; the families stroll on Sunday in their best dress with the older (read me!) family members attired quite like my Nana and Papa did when I was a child. It is a very reflective moment for me; to be the observer and not a part of this social environment...I can imagine other faces in the crowd.

Now the Library is a sanctuary of foreigners looking for language specific books. I have no difficulty grabbing a dictionary and then perusing the store.I will definitely be back to spend some time looking and thumbing through some of the books offered.

I cross back over the Lana River which is running brown from all the runoff of the past few days. I hurry as I need to meet Hector and Martha for a shopping trip to the German Store, and Martha has graciously agreed to drive us all.

Now the German store is a small hole in the wall that sells German food products. You learn quickly that you have to network with the other foreigners to find products you like or enjoyed in the past.Martha gets her oatmeal here; pickles for me; and mustard and beer for Hector today! Let me back up, just before entering the German Store we passed a new wine tasting store from Spain (el Sabor). Actually the Barcelona/Catalonia area of Spain. So, adventure/opportunity called and we stepped in for a "visit". Martha focused on the wine and Hector and I engaged the salesman in a discussion about scotch(yes, they sold good scotch), one thing led to another and lo and behold a sample...mission accomplished. Martha will be the guinea pig testing the Barcelona wine.

Off to Casa Italia(big shopping center). I need an iron and Hector and Martha had specialty needs too. Again, another successful trip. Now to Gloria's for a late lunch. Gloria's is located by the "millionaire's market" (where I picked up a half-kilo of black olives, apples from Italy and some cheese from Gjirokaster)and is one of Martha's favorite places to eat in Tirana. I must admit the food is beautifully presented and prepared and the portions are of a good size(read ample). Martha had vegetarian and asked for every vegetable that we did not eat and Hector and I ate meatatarian(is that a word?). Oh, and the beer is always cold and good. This time though, the waiter gave Hector a non-alcoholic Bitburg to start...a good laugh on this one. Oh, and they treat us like long lost relatives...what a nice feeling so far from home! I see why Martha really likes this place.

I am attaching a photo from Berat of Hector, Martha and me.

Monday is "Revolution Day" and another week of unknown challenges and opportunities; who could ask for more?