On The Road to Berat

An early morning departure from in front of the US Embassy in Tirana to Berat(122km) via Durres and Lushnje awaited 30 intrepid Embassy employees and family. I rode on the "short" bus with mainly adults(old folks) and one delightful 18 month baby and parents. We left under very wet and stormy conditions for the historic city of Berat or "the city of one window above one window".

The road to Berat took us through Durres, the major seaport of Albania. We stopped for coffee and I took the opportunity to walk to the beach and take a photograph of the Adriatic Sea and the skyline of Durres. Just inside the harbor was moored a mid-sized cruise ship. The Sea was rough and no one on the beach was in the water where I walked.

After the brief stop we continued on to Berat, through the countryside passing reminders of the Cold War in the shape of "mushroom" bunkers. The road led us through the largest agricultural zone of Albania, with large and small fields on both sides of the road.

Berat is located in the Osum River valley, which at this point in its' flow is a meandering river with wide bends and turns; quite like the feeder rivers of the Mississippi River in the United States. Legend in Albania has it that the Osum River was formed from the tears of a Princess who cried after the death of two divinities who fought over her and died.

Berat is a very ancient city dating to settlements in the 6th century BC. It was part of the Illyrian Empire and was known as Antipatrea(the castle of Antipatrea) which was the scene of Illyrian-Roman battles.Eventually the Byzantines would also conquer, followed by Bulgarians and the Ottomans.

We passed through the city and climbed the hill to the strategically located Castle Berat with its' commanding view of the Osum River and surrounding mountains. The road took us through ancient olive groves(Berat is known for olives) and an ever astounding view of the valley floor below. The view was punctuated by gaudily painted Communist era apartment towers.

The Castle Berat erupts from the highest point of the mountain with remnants of massive fortifications visible as you enter the castle.

What a young boy's delight as I watched some of the Embassy children defend the Castle with Light Sabers(I'm not sure it matters if Luke Skywalker or an Illyrian defends his home). I walked along the perimeter of the Castle wall which afforded me a view downward into the valley that was unobstructed...what a defensive advantage for the defenders of Castle Berat.

The interior of the Castle Berat contains a small village and many Orthodox Churches
and a small tower of the "Red Mosque". I wandered through the village past ancient walls to peer inside the closed off patios to reveal starkly contemporary mosaics and groves of pear trees and grapevines.


Also located within the walls of Castle Berat is the Onufri National Museum inside the Saint Mary Church. On display in the Museum is a collection of Icons and Liturical objects. The museum is dedicated to the 16th century Albanian painting Headmaster Onufri. There is a prominent statue of Onufri in the small town plaza.

After a couple of hours of climbing over walls, walking on ancient streets, smelling the age of the Castle Berat we boarded our bus for a walk through modern Berat.

The next stop was the National Ethographic Museum, located in a residence consistent with landowners in feudal times. It is believe the construction of the house dates to the 18th century, during Ottoman rule.

The curator provided us with a perspective of life in a home of this nature and time. The house is divided into areas of access and dependent upon who came to visit; which areas of the house would be open to the visitor and if the women would be seen or secluded during the guest's presence in the house. This room was used for entertaining and depending on who came to visit, the women could serve and be seen or could sit behind wooden screens and watch without being seen by the visitor(s).

The house has various rooms for sleeping, eating, cooking, entertaining, etc. The doorways from room to room are low and the passageways very narrow.

The outside area on the first floor displayed the necessary tools for the home and to process olives into oil, including presses and huge amphoras for transport and storage.

Lunch was had at the "White House" restaurant next to the Osum River, not far from the Gorica Bridge. We ate "Berat" olives with pizza and Korca beer, which isn't bad in my opinion.

Next and last stop before our return trek to Tirana was the Winery of Cobo(Cho-bo) a resurrected family enterprise just outside of Berat. We sampled a red blend of Cabernet, Shesh(local varietal)and Merlot, which was passable, but not really an ooooh or wow moment. A very nice family and a beautiful facility with ancient mosaic tile in the barrel room.


Back to the bus and on the road again...next destination Macedonia.